The back game is backgammon’s most ambitious defensive strategy — and its most difficult to execute correctly. When your position looks lost, a well-timed back game can turn catastrophe into victory. But a badly timed back game is one of the fastest ways to give up a gammon. This guide explains exactly when, why, and how to play a back game.
Key Takeaways
- A back game is a strategy where you hold two (or more) points deep in your opponent's home board and wait for a late shot
- Back games are a last resort — usually played when you're well behind in the race
- Timing is everything: you need enough checkers in position to still have a good board when the shot comes
- The best back games hold two adjacent points (e.g., 1 & 2, 1 & 3, 2 & 3 in your opponent's home board)
- A hit in a back game is only the beginning — you must then contain the hit checker to win
- Back games fail when your home board crumbles before your opponent enters bearoff, or when you miss the shot
What Is a Back Game?
A back game is a defensive strategy where you maintain two or more points deep in your opponent’s home board (typically points 1–3), waiting to hit a shot when your opponent starts bearing off.
Unlike a holding game (where you hold one anchor and wait), a back game involves two anchors deep in the opponent’s home board. This gives you two chances to hit rather than one — and dramatically increases the chance of catching a shot during bearoff.
The goal: Hit a checker late in the game while your opponent is bearing off, then contain that checker and eventually win or save the gammon.
When to Play a Back Game
Back games are a last resort strategy. You typically fall into one (rather than choosing it at the start) when:
- You’ve been hit multiple times and have several checkers stuck in your opponent’s board
- You’re so far behind in the race that a running game is hopeless
- Your opponent is bearing off or nearly bearing off and you’re nowhere near home
Signs you should commit to a back game:
- You have 4+ checkers in your opponent’s home board
- Your pip count is 50+ behind your opponent’s
- You cannot establish a running game or effective holding game
If you have the choice early, don’t choose a back game — it’s the weakest game type when played from scratch. It only becomes your best option when all others are gone.
The Best Back Game Points
Not all back game anchor combinations are equal. Here are the most common:
| Points held | Quality | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1 & 2 | Excellent | Adjacent, covers most bearoff combinations |
| 1 & 3 | Very good | Wide coverage of bearoff positions |
| 2 & 3 | Good | Good coverage, slightly less deep |
| 1 & 4 | Moderate | Gap between points reduces coverage |
| 1 & 2 & 3 | Excellent (3-point back game) | Very powerful but rare |
| Deep back games (1 & 6) | Weak | Too spread; opponent can maneuver around them |
The 1-2 back game is generally considered the best because adjacent low points cover the widest range of bearoff combinations. When your opponent leaves a blot anywhere in their home board during bearoff, you’re likely to hit.
The Critical Problem: Timing
The biggest challenge in a back game is timing — keeping your position strong enough that when you eventually hit, you still have a good home board to contain the hit checker.
What Good Timing Looks Like
- Your home board is partially made (3–4 points) when the shot opportunity comes
- You have checkers in your outer board available to make more home board points
- The hit checker, once sent to the bar, cannot easily re-enter because your board is strong
What Bad Timing Looks Like (The Crunched Back Game)
- Your home board has already broken down (forced to play to low points)
- When you finally hit, your home board is a mess of single checkers (blots)
- The opponent re-enters immediately and escapes — your back game fails
The paradox of the back game: You need time for the back game to work, but the more behind you are (the more time you have), the more your checkers pile up in your home board and crunch. Managing this contradiction is the highest skill in back game play.
Managing Timing: Practical Tips
Keep Checkers in Your Mid-Board
Your 13-point and 8-point are “timing preservers” — checkers there can be played later without immediately entering your home board. Use them to delay crunching.
Play High Home-Board Points First
When you must play inside your home board, play off the highest points first (6, then 5, then 4). This preserves your structure longest.
Don’t Crunch Voluntarily
Avoid playing two or three checkers to your 1-point in a row. Once your 1-point is buried with 4–5 checkers, you’ve lost valuable timing.
Roll Off Strategically
In some positions, you can “waste” moves on checkers deep in your opponent’s home board rather than playing in your own board. Moving from 1-point to 2-point (or 2-point to 3-point) uses up a pip without crunching your home board.
When the Shot Comes
The moment you’ve been waiting for: your opponent leaves a blot while bearing off. Now you hit — but the game isn’t over. This is where back games become complicated.
Hitting the Shot
Hit the blot with a checker from one of your two back-game anchors. Do not leave both anchors if you can help it — maintaining at least one anchor prevents your opponent from clearing checkers freely.
Containing the Hit Checker
The opponent now has a checker on the bar (or somewhere in their board). Your job is to contain it — prevent it from escaping your home board while you bear off.
Containing requires:
- A strong home board (ideally all 6 points made)
- Enough checkers in position to maintain the board while bearing off
- Good timing — you can’t bear off forever while containing
The Threat of the Second Hit
With two points in the opponent’s board, if the hit checker escapes, you may hit it again from the second anchor. This is the great advantage of the two-point back game over a single anchor.
Common Back Game Mistakes
Mistake 1: Committing to a back game too early Players sometimes deliberately try to play a back game from the start. This almost never works — back games are so difficult that choosing one voluntarily is a losing strategy most of the time.
Mistake 2: Letting the home board crunch The most common failure. Playing low home-board points too early destroys timing. Be patient and play high.
Mistake 3: Missing the shot When your opponent bears off a blot and you have 2 checkers on a point that can hit — recalculate carefully. An indirect shot (needing a specific non-direct number) is still worth taking if the position warrants.
Mistake 4: Releasing both anchors Once you have both back-game points, release them only when you have a high chance of winning after hitting. Releasing one anchor to attack is sometimes correct, but releasing both prematurely ends the back game.
Mistake 5: Ignoring gammon saving In many back games, even winning is unlikely. Your real goal shifts to saving the gammon — getting at least one checker off before you lose. Recognise this and play accordingly.
Back Game vs Holding Game
| Feature | Back Game | Holding Game |
|---|---|---|
| Anchors | Two deep points (1–3) | One point (usually 3–5) |
| Race position | Far behind | Moderately behind |
| When to use | Desperate positions only | Early-to-mid game tactics |
| Gammon risk | Very high (can backfire) | Moderate |
| Win probability | Low but possible | Moderate |
| Timing challenge | Extreme | Moderate |
Frequently Asked Questions
What is a back game in backgammon?
A back game is a defensive strategy where you hold two points deep in your opponent’s home board (typically the 1, 2, or 3 point) and wait to hit a late shot when they’re bearing off.
When should you play a back game?
Only when you’re far behind in the race with no realistic alternative. Back games are a last resort — they are difficult to execute and high-risk.
What are the best points to hold in a back game?
The 1-2 back game is considered the best: two adjacent, deep points that cover the widest range of bearoff blots. The 1-3 back game is also strong.
Why do back games fail?
The most common failure is bad timing — your home board crumbles before the shot comes, so when you do hit, you can’t contain the checker. Back games also fail when the shot is missed entirely.
Can you win from a back game?
Yes — that’s the point. A successful back game can convert a near-certain loss into a win. But the probability is lower than other strategies, which is why back games are last resorts.
Is a back game a good opening strategy?
No. Never deliberately play a back game from the start. The strategy only makes sense when forced into it by bad positions and falling behind significantly.
Further Reading
- Backgammon Holding Game — The less extreme defensive alternative
- Backgammon Priming Strategy — The aggressive counterpart
- Backgammon Anchor Guide — Anchors in all game contexts
- Backgammon Strategy Guide — All four game types compared
- Backgammon Probability — Shot-hitting probabilities