The bar is the central dividing ridge of a backgammon board — and one of the most strategically important features of the game. When a checker is hit, it goes to the bar and must re-enter before any other move can be made. Understanding the bar rules completely, and using the bar strategically, is fundamental to strong play. This guide covers everything: how checkers get hit, what the bar rules say, re-entry probability, and bar strategy for both attacking and defending.
Key Takeaways
- The bar is the raised central divider of the board — hit checkers are placed here
- A blot (single checker on a point) is vulnerable — an opponent landing on it sends it to the bar
- Any checker on the bar must re-enter before you can move other checkers
- You re-enter in your opponent's home board (points 19–24 from your view) using die rolls
- If all entry points are blocked by the opponent, you forfeit your entire turn
- A closed home board (all 6 points held) completely traps any checker on the bar
What Is the Bar?
The bar is the raised ridge that runs across the centre of a backgammon board, dividing it into four quadrants (two home boards and two outer boards). It is not a playing point — no checker can land or rest “on” the bar as a position during active play.
When a checker is hit (see below), it is placed on top of the bar on the side of the player who owns the checker. Each player has their own side of the bar.
How Checkers Get Hit
A blot is a single checker sitting alone on any point. It is vulnerable to being hit. When an opponent’s move ends on a point where your blot sits, your checker is hit and sent to the bar.
The Hitting Rule
- You can only hit a blot — a single checker on a point
- A made point (2 or more checkers) cannot be hit — it is safe
- You cannot choose not to hit — if your move legally lands on a blot, you must hit it
- Multiple checkers can be hit in one turn if both dice moves land on separate blots
What Happens When You’re Hit?
- Your checker is placed on the bar (on your side of the centre ridge)
- On your next turn, you must re-enter that checker before moving any other checker
- If you have multiple checkers on the bar, you must re-enter all of them before moving others
Re-entering from the Bar
The Re-entry Rule
To re-enter a checker from the bar, roll the dice and enter on the opponent’s home board — points 1–6 from their perspective, which is points 19–24 from your perspective.
The die value you use corresponds to the point you enter on:
- Die showing 1 → Enter on the 24-point (your perspective) / opponent’s 1-point
- Die showing 2 → Enter on the 23-point / opponent’s 2-point
- Die showing 3 → Enter on the 22-point / opponent’s 3-point
- Die showing 4 → Enter on the 21-point / opponent’s 4-point
- Die showing 5 → Enter on the 20-point / opponent’s 5-point
- Die showing 6 → Enter on the 19-point / opponent’s 6-point
Conditions for Re-entry
You can enter on a point if:
- The point is empty (no checkers)
- The point has only your own checkers
- The point has a single opponent checker (blot) — entering there hits their blot and sends it to the bar
You cannot enter on a point held by 2+ opponent checkers (a made point).
When You Can’t Re-enter
If every point you could enter on (matching your dice) is blocked by the opponent (held with 2+ checkers), you forfeit your entire turn. You cannot move any other checker. Roll again next turn and try to re-enter again.
If both dice show blocked points, the entire turn is forfeited.
Doubles on the Bar
If you roll doubles while on the bar, you can re-enter up to twice (once per die if both entry points match valid re-entry points), and then use the remaining double moves for other checkers — but only after all bar checkers have re-entered.
Re-entry Probability by Points Closed
| Points opponent has closed | Probability of entering 1 checker | Average turns to enter |
|---|---|---|
| 0 closed | 100% | 1 |
| 1 closed | 83.3% | 1.2 |
| 2 closed | 55.6% | 1.8 |
| 3 closed | 33.3% | 3.0 |
| 4 closed | 16.7% | 6.0 |
| 5 closed | 2.8% | ~36 |
| 6 closed (prime) | 0% | Indefinitely |
A 5-point home board closure is devastating — you’ll need doubles on average to enter. A full 6-point closure (closed board) means the checker on the bar cannot re-enter at all until the opponent opens a point.
Bar Strategy for the Attacking Player
Build Your Home Board
The primary attacking goal when hitting a blot is to close your home board — make all 6 home points before your opponent can re-enter. A closed board traps their checker on the bar indefinitely.
You don’t need all 6 points — even 4 or 5 closed points creates enormous problems for the opponent, who must roll certain specific numbers to re-enter.
Hit Multiple Blots
When attacking, try to send multiple checkers to the bar. An opponent with two checkers on the bar will likely forfeit multiple turns, giving you time to close points, advance your checkers, and create a crushing position.
Don’t Leave Shots
After hitting, avoid leaving your own blots in vulnerable positions. The opponent will be rolling desperately to hit back. If your attacking position has gaps where you’ve had to leave blots, those blots are dangerous.
Bar Strategy for the Defending Player
Keep Re-entry Points Open
If your opponent is attacking, they’ll try to close their home board. If you have checkers on the bar and all their home points close, you’re trapped. Try to hit back before they close — hitting a blot in their home board while on the bar (if you can re-enter on a blot) re-opens that point.
Anchor Deeply
If you can re-enter on your opponent’s lower points (1, 2, 3) — their deepest home board points — you create an anchor that is hard to dislodge. A deep anchor prevents a full home board close and gives you a fighting chance.
Play Quickly Once Re-entered
Once you re-enter, the priority is to escape — move your re-entered checker toward safety or join a builder chain. A lone re-entered checker sitting in your opponent’s home board is still vulnerable.
The Strategic Value of the Bar
Why Hitting Matters
Sending a checker to the bar has several effects simultaneously:
- Opponent loses tempo — they must spend turns re-entering instead of improving their position
- You gain time — extra moves without response allow you to make key points or advance your primes
- Gammon threats increase — an opponent on the bar, unable to re-enter, may bear off zero checkers = gammon
- Psychological pressure — being on the bar with a strong opponent home board is the most difficult situation in backgammon
When Not to Hit
Hitting is not always correct. Avoid hitting when:
- Your home board is completely open and has no points made — re-entry is trivially easy for the opponent
- The hit exposes your own checker to a dangerous return shot
- The position is a race and hitting would slow your own progress significantly
- You’re in a back game and timing is more important than hitting immediately
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I have more than one checker on the bar?
Yes — you can have up to all 15 checkers on the bar (though this would mean all have been hit, which is extremely rare). All must re-enter before you can move any other checker.
What is a “closed board” in backgammon?
A closed board (also called a “prime” or “full prime” when 6 consecutive points) means all 6 points of your home board are made (held with 2+ checkers). Any opponent checker on the bar cannot re-enter at all.
If I’m on the bar and hit my opponent’s blot on re-entry, does that happen immediately?
Yes — your re-entering checker hits their blot on that point, sending it to the bar, and your checker occupies that point. Both moves happen in the same turn.
Can I choose not to hit when re-entering?
No. If re-entering from the bar, you must enter on the point corresponding to your die. If there is a blot there, you automatically hit it — there is no choice.
Does the bar count as a point?
No. The bar is not a numbered point and cannot be made or held. It is only a holding space for hit checkers.
Further Reading
- Backgammon Rules — Complete official rules reference
- Backgammon Blitz Attack — How to use hitting aggressively
- Backgammon Probability — Odds of hitting, re-entering, and more
- Backgammon Strategy — How bar play fits into overall game strategy
- How to Play Backgammon — Complete beginner’s guide