The blitz is backgammon’s most aggressive strategy — and one of its most exciting. When a blitz works, you hit your opponent’s checkers repeatedly, close your home board, and strand multiple checkers on the bar. The result is often a quick gammon. When it fails, you can be left overextended and vulnerable. This guide teaches you when to blitz, how to execute it, and how to survive when your opponent blitzes you.
Key Takeaways
- A blitz is an aggressive attack aimed at hitting multiple opponent checkers and closing your home board
- The goal is to keep opponents on the bar while you complete your home board — then they cannot re-enter
- A closed board (all 6 home-board points made) with opponent checkers on the bar wins rapidly
- Blitzes produce high gammon rates — often 30–50% if the attack succeeds
- The main risk: over-extending leaves your own checkers stranded if the blitz fails
- Against a blitz, your priority is to enter from the bar immediately and counter-hit if possible
What Is a Blitz?
A blitz (also called an attack or attacking game) is a strategy where you aggressively hit opponent blots, aiming to:
- Keep multiple opponent checkers on the bar simultaneously
- Close your home board (make all 6 inner points)
- Win a gammon before the opponent can recover
The word “blitz” comes from the German for lightning — and a successful blitz can end the game explosively fast.
When to Choose a Blitz
A blitz is the right strategy when:
- Your opponent has a single checker back in your home board (especially on a high point like 1 or 2)
- Your home board is already partially made (3–4 points established)
- Your position is strong enough to absorb hits — blitzing often leaves blots of your own
- The race is roughly even or slightly in your favour — so a gammon win adds significant value
- Your opponent’s board is weak — they can’t hit back effectively
Avoid blitzing when:
- Your home board is completely undeveloped (nothing to close)
- Your opponent has two checkers back (much harder to keep both on the bar)
- You’re far ahead in the race (just run — the blitz adds risk)
- The cube situation means a gammon has no extra value
The Mechanics of a Blitz
Phase 1: Create Hitting Opportunities
The blitz starts by finding (or forcing) opponent blots to hit. Often this begins when your opponent moves a single checker out to build their board and you happen to hit it.
Opening hits that launch a blitz:
- Hitting a blot on your 5-point or 4-point with a spare checker
- Rolling a hitting roll that also makes an important point
Phase 2: Hit and Cover
Once checkers are on the bar, the priority is:
- Keep hitting every opportunity
- Make your home board points as you hit
The rhythm of a blitz: hit — cover the hitting point — hit again — cover again.
If you hit but can’t cover the point you hit from, your checker is also a blot. Your opponent may re-enter and hit back, derailing the attack.
Phase 3: Close the Board
The ideal outcome is a closed board — all 6 home-board points made — while opponent checkers are on the bar. A closed board means:
- Opponent cannot enter from the bar (any roll hits a made point)
- While waiting, you start bearing off checkers
- Opponent may have to bear off on the bar, wasting moves
A closed board with one or two opponent checkers on the bar is nearly always a gammon win.
Phase 4: Maintain Pressure
Even without a fully closed board, maintain pressure by:
- Not leaving easy shots for your opponent to re-enter
- Keeping your board as strong as possible (4–5 points made)
- Stripping your opponent’s builders so they can’t rebuild
The Key Risks of Blitzing
Risk 1: Leaving Too Many Blots
Aggressive attacking often means your own checkers are spread as blots. If your opponent enters from the bar and hits, the attack collapses.
Mitigation: Only blitz when you have enough spare checkers to cover hitting points. Never hit and leave two blots — hitting one while the other gets hit back erases your gains.
Risk 2: Running Out of Timing
A blitz requires your position to stay strong while the opponent is pinned. If your home board crumbles (points break) before you can close it, the attack fails.
Mitigation: Build your home board points in order from the highest (6-point down to 1-point). Don’t strip your outer board carelessly.
Risk 3: The Opponent’s Counter-Hit
When opponent re-enters from the bar and hits a blot of yours, your momentum stops. Even worse if they can anchor in your home board after entering.
Mitigation: If you’re attacking aggressively, try to avoid leaving blots near the point they’re entering to (your low home-board points).
Blitz Statistics
Blitzes produce very different outcomes from quieter games:
| Blitz scenario | Approximate outcome |
|---|---|
| Board closed, 2 checkers on bar | ~90% gammon chance |
| Board 5-closed, 1 on bar | ~50-60% gammon |
| Board 4-closed, 1 on bar | ~25-35% gammon |
| Attack failed, blots remain | Often a game loss |
The high variance is why blitzes are cube decisions in themselves: if you’re successfully blitzing, doubling early forces an error from the opponent.
Defending Against a Blitz
When your opponent is blitzing you:
Priority 1: Enter from the Bar Immediately
This is non-negotiable. Always use a die to enter from the bar. Staying on the bar while your opponent closes their board is game-ending.
Priority 2: Counter-Hit if You Enter Safely
If you enter on a point occupied by only one opponent checker (a blot), hit it — even at risk. This disrupts their timing and potentially reverses the attack.
Priority 3: Anchor in Their Home Board
If you enter and can establish a point (2+ checkers) in their home board, do so. An anchor in their 1, 2, or 3 point gives you a base and makes their gammon threat much smaller.
Priority 4: Run if You Can’t Anchor
If there’s no shot and no anchor to be made, run. Getting checkers to safety matters more than fighting for position when you’re under attack.
Priority 5: Cube Awareness
If you’re being heavily blitzed and the position looks bad, consider dropping a double rather than taking and facing a likely gammon loss. Doubles taken poorly against blitzes are a major source of losses for intermediate players.
Blitz vs. Prime: Choosing the Right Attack
When you have a checker advantage and opponent blots to hit:
| Factor | Choose Blitz | Choose Prime |
|---|---|---|
| Opponent checkers back | 1 | 2+ |
| Your home board | 3+ points made | Weak/undeveloped |
| Race status | Even or slightly ahead | Behind |
| Gammon value | High (match score) | Moderate |
| Your builders available | Few | Many |
Often the game evolves from one to the other — you start attacking and switch to priming if the attack slows.
Classic Blitz Position
Position: You have 4 home-board points made, opponent has one checker on the bar and one checker on your 1-point. You roll 6-4.
Correct play: Make the 2-point AND prepare a hit. In positions like this, the race to close the board is everything.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is a blitz in backgammon?
A blitz is an aggressive attacking strategy where you hit opponent checkers repeatedly, aim to keep them on the bar, and close your home board to prevent re-entry.
When is a blitz the right strategy?
When your opponent has one checker back, your home board is partially made, and you have hitting opportunities. Avoid blitzing when the opponent has two checkers back or your board is undeveloped.
What is a “closed board” and why does it matter?
A closed board means all 6 of your home-board points are made. Opponent checkers on the bar cannot re-enter because every landing point is occupied. This is the ideal outcome of a blitz.
How often does a blitz lead to a gammon?
With a fully closed board and opponent checkers on the bar, roughly 85-90% of the time. With a partial board, rates vary widely based on specific positions.
How do you defend against a blitz?
Enter from the bar on every turn (mandatory), counter-hit if possible, try to establish an anchor in the opponent’s home board, and consider dropping a heavy double rather than risking a gammon.
Is blitzing suitable for beginners?
Beginners can attempt blitzes but often fail to maintain timing. The key lesson is: only blitz when you have builders to cover hitting points. Hitting without covering leads to your own blots being hit.
Further Reading
- Backgammon Priming Strategy — The alternative attacking approach
- Backgammon Strategy Guide — All game types in context
- Backgammon Gammon Guide — Why gammon chances matter so much
- Doubling Cube Guide — When to double in an attacking position
- Backgammon Probability — Hitting odds and calculations