Your opening move in backgammon sets the tone for the entire game. There are 15 possible non-double opening rolls (doubles on the first roll are re-rolled). Here are the expert-recommended plays for each one.
Why Opening Moves Matter
The opening roll happens before any positional complexity develops. This means mathematically optimal plays can be calculated and agreed upon by experts. Learning these moves gives you an immediate edge over opponents who play by instinct.
The 15 Opening Rolls
6-5: Run (24/13)
Move: Move one back checker all the way from the 24-point to the 13-point.
This is the only opening roll that lets you bring a back checker fully to safety in one move. There’s no debate — this is the clear best play.
6-4: Run (24/14)
Move: Move one back checker from the 24-point to the 14-point.
Running is preferred. You bring a back checker to a relatively safe position. The alternative (24/18, 13/9) splits but leaves more blots.
6-3: Run (24/15)
Move: Move one back checker from the 24-point to the 15-point.
Running with 6-3 is generally preferred, though some experts also like 24/18, 13/10 (splitting and building). Running is simpler and safer for most players.
6-2: Lover’s Leap (24/18, 13/11)
Move: Move a back checker to the bar point (24/18) and bring a midpoint checker to the 11-point (13/11).
This “splits” your back checkers while building in your outer board. The 18-point (opponent’s bar) is a useful place to have a checker.
6-1: Make Your Bar Point (13/7, 8/7)
Move: Move two checkers to your 7-point (bar point), making it.
One of the strongest opening rolls. Making the bar point extends your blockade to three consecutive points (6, 7, 8). This is universally considered the best play.
5-4: Split and Build (13/8, 24/20)
Move: Move a midpoint checker to the 8-point and move a back checker to the 20-point (opponent’s 5-point).
You start building your prime while putting a checker on the valuable 20-point. If your opponent doesn’t hit it, you may make that anchor next turn.
5-3: Make Your 3-Point (8/3, 6/3)
Move: Move two checkers to make your 3-point.
Although the 3-point is low, making any home board point on the first roll is strong. Some experts prefer 13/8, 13/10 (building the outer board), but making the 3-point is the traditional best play.
5-2: Split (13/8, 24/22)
Move: Move a midpoint checker to build your 8-point and move a back checker up to the 22-point.
The 8-point builder creates future building opportunities while the split puts a checker in position to make an opponent’s home board anchor.
5-1: Split (13/8, 24/23)
Move: Move to the 8-point (13/8) and split to the 23-point (24/23).
The midpoint-to-8 builder is consistently strong. The split to the 23-point gives you a chance to make a good anchor if you aren’t hit.
4-3: Split and Build (13/9, 24/21)
Move: Move to the 9-point and split to the opponent’s 4-point (21-point).
Building in the outer board while targeting a strong anchor point. The 21-point (opponent’s 4-point) is a good anchor if you make it.
4-2: Make Your 4-Point (8/4, 6/4)
Move: Move two checkers to make your 4-point.
A strong opening roll. Your 4-point is a key home board point. Making it on the first roll is excellent — it extends your prime and strengthens your home board.
4-1: Split (13/9, 24/23)
Move: Build to the 9-point and split to the 23-point.
This gives you builders in your outer board and a diversified position in your opponent’s board.
3-2: Split (13/11, 24/21)
Move: Move to the 11-point builder and split to the 21-point.
The 21-point (opponent’s 4-point) is a strong anchor target, and the 11-point builder creates future options.
3-1: Make Your 5-Point (8/5, 6/5)
Move: Move two checkers to make your 5-point.
The best possible opening roll. Your 5-point is the most important point on the board. Making it on the first roll gives you an immediate strategic advantage.
2-1: Split (13/11, 24/23)
Move: Move a midpoint checker to the 11-point and split a back checker to the 23-point.
Building and splitting — this is a flexible play that creates future opportunities.
Opening Rolls Summary Table
| Roll | Best Move | Type | Strength |
|---|---|---|---|
| 6-5 | 24/13 | Run | Strong |
| 6-4 | 24/14 | Run | Good |
| 6-3 | 24/15 | Run | Good |
| 6-2 | 24/18, 13/11 | Split & Build | Good |
| 6-1 | 13/7, 8/7 | Make Point | Excellent |
| 5-4 | 13/8, 24/20 | Split & Build | Good |
| 5-3 | 8/3, 6/3 | Make Point | Good |
| 5-2 | 13/8, 24/22 | Split & Build | Average |
| 5-1 | 13/8, 24/23 | Split & Build | Average |
| 4-3 | 13/9, 24/21 | Split & Build | Average |
| 4-2 | 8/4, 6/4 | Make Point | Excellent |
| 4-1 | 13/9, 24/23 | Split & Build | Average |
| 3-2 | 13/11, 24/21 | Split & Build | Average |
| 3-1 | 8/5, 6/5 | Make Point | Best |
| 2-1 | 13/11, 24/23 | Split & Build | Average |
Key Takeaways
- Point-making rolls (3-1, 4-2, 6-1) are the strongest — making a key point on the first roll gives an immediate advantage
- Running rolls (6-5, 6-4, 6-3) are straightforward — escape a back checker when you can
- Split-and-build rolls are the most common — they create flexible positions for future development
- Never slot the 5-point on the opening roll — it’s too dangerous with all of your opponent’s checkers in play
What Happens After the Opening?
After the first few rolls, the game becomes positional and much harder to calculate. That’s where strategic principles take over. Continue learning with:
- Strategy Guide — Master positional play
- Probability & Odds — Understand the numbers
- Play vs Computer — Practice your openings